- Haris Custo
This relatively new climbing area quickly rose to become one of the biggest, most beautiful and most diverse climbing area of Bosnia and Herzegovina. It is located on the edge of the cosy village of Blagaj, not far from the spring of Buna, a high volume icy stream that emerges straight out the bottom of a 200 m rock face. Directly next to the spring, nested under the rocks is the Tekke Blagaj, a dervish monastery from the 16th century which is part of the UNESCO world cultural heritage.
Blagaj’s geographical location, pleasant climate and sector orientation made it possible for the Blagaj climbing season to last almost all year. The French Scale is used to evaluate the directions – Types of directions that will satisfy all climbers from old school boards with small shelves that require maximum precision fine-tuned footwork, to totally modern athletics in extremely overhanging directions.The Rebro and Šube sectors are in position that they can climb all year. The sectors Pejotl (A), Pčelinjak (B), Ljut(C), Crvena stijena (D), Duga peć, Karantena and Vučije točilo are great for winter, since they are mostly in the sun and if the wind is not too strong you will climb in a T-shirt. During summer, it gets unbearably hot after 10 a.m. in these sectors. Then you can move on to the canyon sectors Hladovina, Publika and Ispod-Vodopanac who usually have a bit of wind and offer different orientations that provides shade. If you are still too hot you can go and visit nearby Tekke and Buna spring to cool off. It is probably one of the coldest waters you will ever swim in.
Characteristics of the rocks and climbing routes on the climbing site in Blagaj:
-The climbing site in Blagaj occupies a rather large geographic area of some 2.5 kilometers in length.
– The limestone is of exceptional quality due to the geological image of the terrain and the pleasant climate.
-The variety of angles and length of the individual sectors have enabled Blagaj to have all kinds of routes: from the least difficult ones to the ones used by the top climbers
– The length of the routes goes from 15 metres to the sports multi-pitches of 200 metres.
-There are about 140 routes, the level of difficulty goes from 3 to the potential 8.
-You need to carry 15 quickdraws and 70 m rope.