We sat down with Wanja, one of the driving forces behind new route development in Bosnia and Herzegovina. With over 30 years of experience in climbing—spanning everything from big wall expeditions to bouldering, sport climbing, and even ice—Wanja brings a unique perspective shaped by decades in the scene. Originally from Munich, he’s now part of the growing climbing community in Herzegovina. Here’s how it all unfolded.
Tarik: Let’s start simple—tell us a little bit about yourself.
Wanja: I was born and raised in Munich. I started climbing pretty young—back when there wasn’t even a national climbing team in Germany. Talk about old school! I’ve been climbing for over 30 years now—alpine, sport, bouldering, ice—you name it. I’ve done expeditions to Greenland, set routes in gyms for years, and traveled all over just to climb.
Tarik: Did you grow up climbing in Frankenjura?
Wanja: Kind of. I’m more from the Bavarian pre-Alps, closer to Munich. But Frankenjura was definitely part of our youth—we’d spend nearly every school holiday there. Our parents would drop us off for two weeks at a time. That place really shaped my sport climbing background.
Frankenjura shaped my sport climbing background and gave me the foundation I still rely on today.
Tarik: Was there a local crag that meant a lot to you?
Wanja: Yeah—Buchenhain. It’s this old-school bouldering spot just outside Munich, accessible by city train. Super local, but full of history. Even the guys who did the first ascent of the Eiger North Face trained there. It’s where we got strong.
Tarik: And later you became a route setter?
Wanja: I did that for about 10 years. Worked in gyms and also did a lot of rope access work on the side—that’s how I earned money, so I could spend the rest of my time training and climbing.
I remember when 9a still felt like a myth—something no one thought was possible.
Tarik: So how did you end up in Bosnia and Herzegovina?
Wanja: It started with Drill and Chill. That festival reignited my passion after I’d taken a break while living in Hungary. I had a garden, a carpentry studio… I was living quietly. But the idea of developing new routes was too tempting. Once I got to Banja Luka, I was hooked. Then Igor told me about Blagaj. When I saw the cliffs and landscape—I was blown away. I knew I had to stay.
Tarik: What was it about Herzegovina that pulled you in?
Wanja: The raw nature. The space. The rivers, the mountains—it’s a hidden gem. And the people, the community—it’s open and welcoming. I felt at home right away.
Herzegovina is a hidden gem—the nature, the rivers, the people. I felt at home right away.
Tarik: So you moved here and started bolting?
Wanja: Yeah, I spent my first seven months living in a tent, during COVID. Then I started bolting in Blagaj—Šube sector mostly. The wall was just perfect. Untouched, amazing quality. I couldn’t believe it was still undeveloped.
As a climber, I felt blessed. It’s rare to find untouched cliffs like that.
Tarik: And now those are some of the hardest routes in Blagaj?
Wanja: Yeah. Before that, the hardest was probably Magla, 7b. With the new routes, we opened the door to harder climbing here.
Tarik: Beyond climbing, you’ve also been vocal about protecting the environment.
Wanja: Absolutely. Blagaj is not just a climbing area—it’s a unique biotope. I’m proud we’ve introduced some basic regulations to protect the birds and the canyon. It’s not about locking people out, but about being conscious. We can go almost anywhere—but that doesn’t mean we always should. If we respect the land, we’ll enjoy climbing even more.
We can go almost anywhere—but that doesn’t mean we always should.
Tarik: And you saw the local scene step up?
Wanja: Yeah, it was beautiful. Someone raises the bar, and others follow. Climbers who were doing 6a started trying 7c. That’s what climbing is—growing together.
Tarik: Looking back—how has the scene changed over the last decade?
Wanja: The biggest change is that Herzegovina is becoming a true climbing region—not just scattered crags, but a destination. The rock is world-class. The vibe is chill. And people are starting to notice.
Tarik: Are we handling that growth responsibly?
Wanja: I think so. Development is still driven by individuals, not big organizations. It’s organic, and that keeps it grounded. The community seems aware of how special this place is.
Tarik: So the ethics and environmental focus are still intact?
Wanja: For now, yes. We have a chance to do it better than other places—learn from their mistakes. It’s early, but the foundation is solid.
Tarik: Let’s talk about your work beyond Blagaj—Podruže Canyon and the new sector in Drežnica.
Wanja: Yeah—Drežnica especially was wild. It already had a long history as the first sport crag in the country, but no one touched that big, steep wall. Maybe they saw it and thought it wasn’t climbable.
The silence at the beginning—it never gets old.
Tarik: And then suddenly—20 new routes in under a year.
Wanja: More or less. I found it during a winter scout. I was looking for something dry and climbable—and there it was. It matched what I was looking for: harder, powerful climbing.
Tarik: Some of the hardest routes in the country?
Wanja: Easily. There’s potential up to 8c or beyond. Dennis already set one that raised the standard. It’s just the beginning.
Tarik: What’s next? You’re becoming a leading figure in Herzegovina’s climbing scene.
Wanja: Haha, yeah, that just kind of happened. I just love exploring and bolting good lines. I’m not planning far ahead, but if life allows, I’d love to keep doing this for the next 20 years.
Tarik: And your personal goals—new styles, harder routes—align with what the local scene needs.
Wanja: That’s the magic. When everything clicks, you can’t explain it—you just go with it. I feel grateful.
Tarik: You’ve really impacted the community—from grades to mindset.
Wanja: That’s been the most rewarding part. Seeing others start bolting, sending their first 8a+, setting routes—it’s amazing. That’s when I can step back a bit. It’s about shared responsibility. Respecting nature, each other, and the process.
It’s about shared responsibility. Respecting nature, each other, and the process.
Tarik: Any message for the local community?
Wanja: Stay humble. Stay true. Respect the nature around you. Follow your passion—and the rest will come. Most of all—respect the rock. We’re lucky to be here. Let’s take care of it.
We’re lucky to be in this beautiful corner of the world. Let’s take good care of it.
Tarik: Beautifully said. One last thing—anything personal you’d like to add? Something maybe people don’t know?
Wanja: I owe a lot to my father. He planted the seed—this love for the mountains and the outdoors. He was strict, old-school. He never fell—if you fall in the mountains, you’re in trouble, you know? So I grew up thinking falling was not an option. It took me years to learn to fall on sport routes. But that discipline, that mindset—it’s still with me. It shaped how I climb and how I live.
Tarik: We’re so lucky to be able to fall now haha.
Wanja: And still scared man, hehe.
Tarik: Wanja, thank you. It was a pleasure.
